This Pink Blush Goes on my Cheek, but Where….
The bone structure of our face and our facial features provide plenty of clues as to where we should apply our makeup. You may think it is fairly obvious, but sometimes it isn’t. For example, do you remember when we wore only blush on our cheeks!
The cool thing about it is that if you let your facial features take the lead on it, they will show you where you need to apply the products. Read on, and it will become as plain as the nose on your face, pun intended!
Contouring (Bronzer), Blush and Highlighter
We’ll begin with where to place blush, contour, etc. based upon the bone structure of your face.
Start with contouring. Contouring is using color to enhance the structure of the face. For example, I am a bit cheeky, so my cheekbones are imperceptible. I use contouring to create the illusion of high cheekbones.
For best results, find a matte contour that is just a few shades darker than your natural skin tone. I recommend a powder contour because it is easy to work with. I use Tarte Amazonian Clay Matte Waterproof Bronzer in Park Ave .
For this simple contouring technique, draw an imaginary line from the corner of your lip up to the top of your ear. This roughly represents the location of the bottom of your cheekbones. Beginning at your hairline, apply your contour along that imaginary line toward the center of your face. Stop at the outer edge of your eye. Then, continue applying the contour along your hairline from your forehead and down along your jawline, as depicted below, to form a ‘3’. You may remember me talking about the concept of the 3 shape in “2018 Summer Beauty Trends“.
Next comes the highlighter. Highlighter is used to accentuate areas where light naturally hits your face. I use it very sparingly around the outer edge of the bottom of my eyes. I am using a soft peachy eye shadow with a light shimmer as highlighter.
As for placement of highlighter, use your orbital bones as a guide. The orbital bones are located around your eyes. If you gently push on the skin beneath your eyes, you will feel the bones. Once you locate your orbital bones, use a medium sized blending brush to apply highlighter along the orbital bones, as shown above.
Last comes the blush. Like my contour, I use a powder blush because I find it easy to work with. I am currently using Tarte Amazonian Clay 12-Hour Blush in Exposed.
An easy trick to determine where to begin your blush is the two-finger rule. Hold your index and middle fingers together and place them vertically next to your nostril. Brush the blush on your cheeks from your fingers and back toward your hairline, between the contour and highlighter.
Then, blend, blend blend! I use a flat edge blending sponge with a touch of translucent powder to blend the three products, so you cannot see any demarcation lines.
Clues from Your Face about Your Eye Makeup
As with our blush, etc., we can use our facial bone structure to provide help as to where to apply our eye makeup and how to shape and color our eyebrows.
Starting with the eyebrows, our nose provides hints on the beginning and endpoints of the brows. For plucking, and for color, our eyebrows should begin straight up from the outside of your nostril as depicted below. Any stray hair in between your brows should be plucked so your brows present a nice clean line. The end point on your face for your brows is the point where your brow intersects an imaginary line from your nostril and the outer eye.
Your eye shadow placement should follow the same line from your nose to the outer brow. Your eye shadow should not go out beyond that line.
One last makeup tip to help with the placement of your eye shadow – use tape. Place tape from the outer corner of your eye up just past your out eyebrow. When you complete your eye shadow, remove the tape and you will have a nice clean line. Do make certain to reduce the stickiness of the tape before you apply it to the tender skin around the eye. I stick the tape to a towel or other fabric before using.